Saturday, July 19, 2008

Azure - a Kyoto Gay Bar

went out last night to a gay bar called Azure; it came recommended to me by the bartenders at Nan Nan in nagoya. indeed, after a quick bite at Mos Burger (japanese fast food - i had a teriyaki burger and fries - not bad not great), i got to Azure around 930. at that time, there were three bartenders and two patrons in a small room with a bar seating 7 and a long table behind. thankfully, two of the bartenders spoke decent english. there was Lei, a 23 years old taiwanese who moved to japan 5 years ago for university, and who, after graduation, wants to move to nyc to continue a study in graphic design. then there was Tanjai, a 32 year old kyoto native with a great smile and a cute lip piercing. unfortunately, i cant remember anyone elses names. i ordered a beer and some kiwi and spent the next hour and a half talking with them about kyoto, nyc, pop music (a general dislike of the new madonna album) (pop music is also a good way for japanese to learn english - they listen and mimc the words), rock music, comic books, anime and our first times with gay sex. i also learned the japanese words for top, bottom and versatile.

i thought i would try to see more of gay kyoto, so i asked where else a gaijin who doesn't speak japanese should go. they asked, as in nagoya, what my type is. i said that i like guys near my age who are fit (not really looking for daddies, chubs or bears), though i said i would take english speakers over everything else. they suggested a bar called Apple around the corner. so, i got my picture with them, gave Lei my email address in case he ever comes to nyc (he is just about the cutest thing - reminds me of someone named josh lei in nyc), and said my goodbyes.

i went to apple, finding the bar whose sign was only in japanese, so i had Tanjai write it out on a piece of paper for me. at 11pm, there was no one there except the bartenders, and there was some kind of cover charge, so i decided not to stay. after i left, i realized i didn't know where any of the other gay bars were, so i thought i would just go home. while i was eating a rice ball from 7-11, i thought "man, you're in kyoto and you've already found a fun little gay bar - go back!" and so go back i did.

i strolled back into Azure around 1130 to find it slightly busy, and, to my delight, to find a warm welcome from Lei and Tanjai. i got another beer and joined back into the conversations. it is an odd experience to hear english when being spoken to, but not to understand any other conversation in the bar. though, to my surprise, i am beginning to pick out random words that i know, so i heard Lei mention a yukata (basically, a kimono for summer) and i asked what he was talking about. yesterday, at Gion Matsuri, all the Azure bartenders wore yukata, and Lei wore a woman's one, as well as a wig - japanese geisha drag (i saw pictures. fantastic).

soon, i was sitting at the bar talking with the guy next to me (argh! don't remember his name) who had spent 3 years in chicago for school, and thus spoke very good english. we must have talked for over an hour about everything. i told him what i had done in japan, and validatingly, he told me i have been doing the right things and experiencing some of the best that japan has to offer (tsukiji fish market, onsen, fuji, e.g.). he said all that is left is more food, kimonos and a ryokan. done! i seriously cannot get enough of japanese food - still thinking about those octopus balls. we talked about life in the states. we talked about gay life in japan - he reiterated that until the meiji era, gay sex was very commonplace, especially by samurai. but when the meiji brought in missionaries, such acts were pushed underground and shunned by the desire for homogeneity. only recently have the gays found an identity and a voice, and this guy ("Chicago-san") said that he hopes that japan continues to open up and that the gay movement find a stronger voice than it already has. he said that while there aren't gay bashings or hate crimes to speak of, there is homophobia in society and in the workplace. there are thousands of years of tradition to work through. but he is patient and understanding. i told him my thoughts about keeping certain opinions that come from a truly american perspective a little quiet until i understand more of the japanese point of view. Chicago-san told me that i had a better understanding already of japanese culture than i am giving myself credit for, and that there is much that western countries have to offer japan as far as social liberation. i was very heartened to hear this. i am also, as a sidenote, ecstatic to talk about Obama - the world really is watching and is very excited about the man, and to be able to speak with pride and hope and confidence, rather than disdain, shame and despair... well, it's nice.

talking with Chicago-san was a blast, but my night did not end there. soon, a new group of guys came in. one of them, who didn't speak english, was both the tallest japanese i've seen yet (6'2") and looked JUST LIKE my friend gary lutz - cap, same nose, same hands, lanky, jeans, flannel... i was in shock. there was also a fun, quirky japanese who was already quite drunk who sat on my other side. i told him i was from america and he burst into song from Westwide Story (he repeated these random songs throughout the night). he taught me some more japanese words and, in general, just amused me to no end.

i was shocked to find that (many many a beer later) it was 4am. i had been there for another 5 hours. and it was one of the best nights i have had yet in japan. i finally found the local culture and conversation i had been wanting - and in spades. real conversation with meaning. no facades. no gearing things toward the tourist. just real. i said my goodbyes when the bar closed and walked back to the hostel feeling amazing. just dynamite. i hope to go back tonight - though Lei will be in osaka (good note is that i was told that not only is osaka a great gay scene - clubs and bars galore - but that being there for Tenjin Matsuri is like a mini gay pride). i swear, this trip just keeps getting better and better. i am a lucky man.

Friday, July 18, 2008

Kyoto Part 2

let me just say this:

oh. my. f#ck. kyoto. is. so. freakin'. beautiful. i. can't. stand. it.

seriously.

after my talk with yuko and lincoln, and a shower, i took a walk up the river through the middle of kyoto, as the sun was setting. people sitting out up and down the river, playing with dogs, reading books, fishing, playing in the water. restaurants and bars with open air porches looking out onto the water. views of the mountains around dusted with clouds. lights still everywhere from the Gion Matsuri festival.

i turn onto side alleys and find cobblestone streets lined with lights, restaurants, shrines, temples, shops and teeming with revelers, happy children, geisha and just an overall feel of peace, calm and happiness. this was all enhanced by my ipod playing the Grateful Dead (yeah, i may be biased from the hippier days of my youth, but they are one amazing band - last night's list included Wharf Rat, Terrapin Station and Dark Star from various Dick's Picks). just an amazing night to be outside - this is one beautiful city.

following my walk, i came back to hostel and spent a long time at the bar. i talked to yuko, and met a very diverse crowd - chris and mark from australia, osai from spain, dom from britain, simon from scotland, kevin from ireland, nicola from switzerland and amy from taiwan. we all chatted international politics, indie rock, fashion, japan and batman while drinking beers, doing shots of tequila, and then heading out for ramen and a few bars. i nice, low key night that ended with us back at the hostel drinking beers and eating kit kats. tonight i plan to try out the local gay bars, and if they are nothing to speak of, there are a few clubs in town having some big parties.

this morning, i woke up with a mere 4 hours of sleep, and trudging through a hangover, i had a buffet breakfast of eggs, rolls, yogurt and cheese. good enough to get me going. i rented a bike, and hit the town, doing some major sightseeing of temples and shrines. i first biked up to the northwest corner of kyoto (hostel in the southwest), which took about 30 min (difficult going uphill with a one-speed bike). i started at the Nanzenji temple complex, constructed in 1264. its main gate is a huge affair (22 meters), intricately worked with dragons and gold. the gardens behind the temple itself were something of stunning beauty - hidden coves and waterfalls - well kept foliage and shrubs near calm waters. inside the halls itself, i walked wood floors and peered through paper panels at tapesty artwork, zen altars and more gardens. really stunning.

all of my sights were this amazing. some of these temples has walkways up into this hills that offered sweeping vistas of kyoto and the mountains beyond. others had immaculate zen rock gardens. others shrines hidden in caves built into the hills. others offered walks through room after room of understated elegance - one that made it easy to transport myself into the feet of a pilgrim or student spending my studies in these halls.

following 2.5 hours or so of hiking through the first 3 of the temple complexes i visited, i walked for about 30 minutes along a canal through the hills to find a cute little side street of shops and cafes. i stopped here from sliced seared beef with a soy glaze over rice, with miso soup and a glass of white wine. delicious meal in the cutest cafe ive seen in a long time.

after lunch, i got on my bike again and went to the Golden Pavilion. this legendary temple complex has on it a 3 story zen pavilion coated in gold. i couldn't not take an amazing photo of this one. i must have just stood with my mouth open (aghast, not idiocy, joel) for a good five minutes. i delighted at the gasps of amazement as each new person rounded the corner to gaze upon the pavilion for the first time. the grounds of the temple were, expectedly, well kept and green - teeming with beauty and growth. by the time i left here, after treating myself to some frozen yogurt (yeah dude, its way humid here), i knew i needed to head back to the hostel. so humming some grateful dead, i took a 45 minute bike ride back to the hostel to catch up on my blogging. now it's time for a beer. hey - i'm caught up - congratulate me.

kyoto is just stunning. i don't feel in it the same vibrancy that makes me want to live in tokyo, but i could absolutely envision visiting here at least once a month to walk around, enjoy the sights, feel its pulse and meet its people. i just love it.

Personal Perspectives: the Word "Should"; Am I Patriotic?

i was thinking today how whenever we say "should," as in "you should do X" or "they should do Y," we are speaking from a particular perspective. for example, when a parent says to a child, "you should clean your room," the parent is speaking from the perspective of an older, nurturing individual trying to instill responsibility in her child (we hope!). when a friend tells another, "you should give to X charity," he may be speaking from the perspective of a supporter/worker for that charity, or simply as an altruist. when a priest says, "gays shouldn't marry," he is speaking from the perspective of a a religion based on a book that says gay sex is wrong. when an american says, "foreign country Z should do Q," he is speaking from the perspective of someone who grew up in america, with american values and american culture.

why do i begin with this prelude? yesterday, i met a bartender at my hostel named Yuko. great sidenote is that 5 years ago, she spent 3 years in williamsburg, brooklyn, living a mere 3 blocks from where i currently live. i was talking to her about my experiences in japan so far, and asking about her thoughts on US v. Japan/NYC v. Tokyo. she said that she found much of nyc and tokyo to be the same, but at the same time, found small town japan to be very stubborn and resistant to change. i commented that small town america is the same way (but for a different reason - small town america is steeped in religion - small town japan is stepped in thousands of years of its own isolationist culture of homogeneity). i said that i hadn't seen that side of japan - that everyone i've met has been very open and kind, and that it tokyo seems to be pushing so far ahead of where it should be (by all accounts given that 50 years ago, japan was run by an emperor). a fellow near me named Lincoln, from san francisco, but who has lived outside Nara, Japan for 2 years, offered that i am not seeing all of japan and that while my experiences are fantastic and i shouldn't discount them, they are not finding the whole picture.

i sat back and thought about this. lincoln is right - i have unconsciously been self-selecting the people i talk to - (1) japanese who can speak english; and (2) those who are gay or who stay in hostels. combining these two categories, i am given a very liberal, progressive, youthful population (similar to how a spaniard i met last night, named Osai, said that every american he ever meets in a hostel supports Obama - makes sense doesn't it? an american that has the good sense to actually travel to foreign lands are who takes the time to immerse herself in a foreign culture is likely a democrat). on this point, not speaking japanese has really narrowed the experience i can truly recieve. when i traveled in europe or peru, i could always converse - either english or spanish. i could read street signs and posters; i could go to small bars and chat with locals. here i can't do any of that, unless i am with a japanese speaker. and that isn't always the case. and, at the same time, i avoid things that are really geared toward tourists, so i often end up communicating with locals in a strange combination of broken english and gestures. i can get the point across, but so much is lost in translation.

i am learning more and more about japan every day - its culture, its people and its history. for example, i learned that nearly 70% of samurai had gay sex - they considered sex with women to take away from their masculinity. however, they never called themsevles gay - it was just something they did (e.g., like the greeks and romans). nowadays, gays have made a stand for their identity, and thus the acts that used to be a part of the norm (though not often made very public - affection in general here is a private affair) have become an identity that grounds itself in something different than the norm. misogyny has long been a part of japanese culture, and it is only recently that women in japan have been able to obtain a divorce or receive any alimony at all. it is almost as if japan's social revolution is where america was perhaps in the early 70s. as i mentioned in an earlier post, japan's post-emperor rule is barely 60 years old. prior to that, custom and tradition had been stepped for thousands of years. that is a hard thing to break free of. (my friend john-mark made a comment about personal evolution, and commented that he has stopped hoping that his parents will change and become open and accepting people; that they are not capable of that evolution anymore, as they come from a perspective that doesn't permit it. but john-mark is happy that our generation has evolved more than our parents', and will be able to push forward and become what our parents couldn't).

so given this, i might say something like "well, japanese should just get over it and learn to accept things that are different." but i must realize that i say this from the perspective of an american (born into a country 230 years old), an atheist born and raised jewish, a gay man and a 28 year old. none of these things encompass a working knowledge of japanese history and culture to the point that i should be able to offer my critique or commentary (at least with any serious gravity). and as i said above, what i am gaining about japan comes from a self-selected few. now, it may well be that those i've selected to talk to and learn from are in the best position to talk about japan should be - progressive, young gays are some of the best lodestones for how a society can be more open and accepting - but i don't know that to be the case here yet.

this got me thinking about america. yeah, america has some major fucking faults. but at the same time, we live in a country that is young, and thus perhaps more capable to break free of years of oppressive tradition (sure, christianity is a old beast, but it's hold is fading). i live in a country where i have the opportunity to obtain various world views and incorporate them into my own, and often find that the things i want for other countries are often the things i really like about my own (and i must give canada and europe large amounts of credit, but i will say that i meet many europeans who, putting bush and iraq aside, think that america, and well nyc/san fran/LA in particular, are amazing places; that NYC is a true international city that is one fo the best places anyone could live in this world). shocking to hear perhaps, and i am not sure how deeply i adhere to these sentiments, but it has brought on a thinking as to my true feelings about the country i live in and its capacity for good and change - maybe i really am a patriot.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Rant on "Believe"

so i posted something to facebook the other day that got me thinking. the post linked to an article where john mccain said that he didn't "believe" in gay adoption. today, while walking in town, i got really riled up by this statement. so here's a freeform rant that will trail in odd ways, and will be free of editing, so bear with me, but i think this needs to be said.

dear john mccain,

listen you old sack of wrinkles, i don't much care what you believe. your beliefs are your own personal baggage, and unfortunately for you, they are tempered and created by that book of lies and propaganda you and the others who adhere to your cause seem to hold dear. but that's fine; i will not begrudge you your beliefs as long as they don't bother me. you see, sir, your beliefs, when implemented as policy - they destroy my rights. however, my "beliefs," when implemented as policy, don't do a damn thing to yours. so why don't you just shut up for a damn moment.

moreover, how does one "believe" in gay adoption anyway? one believes in something they can't explain or prove. that is why you believe in god. that is why some people believe in ghosts. that is why some people believe in the afterlife. these are all ideas that are incapable of scientific proof or rational evidence, so we need belief to take their place.

there are many things that do not require belief, sir. for example, i don't "believe" in evolution. i accept it because it is the most rational explanation for a stunning mountain of scientific and anthropological evidence - so much so that is no longer considered a theory, but rather, fact. i don't "believe" in gravity - i accept that it exists as everything falls to the ground with an acceleration of 9.8 meters per second squared. i don't "believe" in god's nonexistence. rather, i accept that god doesn't exist because there is no rational evidence to prove it (remember the scientific method? maybe they don't teach rational thinking at your dumbass bible school, but it follows that all theories need evidentiary proof, and where that proof is lacking, your theory fails. in the case of god, the proper question is "does god exist?" and if your hypothesis is "god exists" then please show me some darn evidence that isn't already better explained by scientific means).

one need not "believe" in gay adoption or gay marriage any more than one believes in adoption or marriage. they are facts. and like or not, you tub of bigoted lard, gays are adopting and marrying anyway and the world has not collapsed. in fact, if we let gays adopt and marry, we would actually be doing what the scientific community (sociologists, psychologists, social workers, mental health professionals, foster care workers, etc.) have been recommending for years! i don't "believe" in gay adoption - i look around at gay people i know who have adopted, or gays that i know who have married, and i accept it as fact.

now, maybe you misspoke. maybe you meant to say that you don't believe that gay adoption should be permissible. that shows two things. one, that you obviously don't give much thought to the feelings of those who aren't stodgy, white, christian, hetero males, and two, that you fail to understand how your beliefs don't mean a damn when it comes to federal policy.

i'll tell you what i "believe" mr mccain. i believe you are a washed up old dinosaur who has no place running a country in the 21st century and whose worldview and thoughts are worth less than a japanese escort's smegma. i believe you are an awful choice for the leader of the free world when you can't even properly express yourself or give any thought to anyone other than you or your constituents. i believe that you should lose, and lose bad, and retire to some backcountry mountain where people of your race must come from. this world doesn't need belief in proven facts, it needs acceptance. this world needs people who understand what rational thought means. this world needs a leader, not a geriatric homophobe, you dumb piece of shit.

aaron.

Kyoto, Part 1

this morning found me back at Denny's, having my first western meal of the trip - eggs, hash browns, toast and salad. i actually used a fork and knife for the first time in over a week. that was also my first bread or potato in a week. it was good, but i don't think i'm missing much by having my noodles, rice and fish.

already a whiz at the nagoya train system, i easily got on my 45 min commute to kyoto, and from there, found it only a short walk to my hostel. i am staying at K's Hostel Kyoto - another in the chain of hostels that i stayed in at fuji. this one is very nice - 3 floors, interet, cafe with beer and coffee and spirits, japanese-style tatami mat lounge and more (have yet to see the rest). my room was not ready, so i hit the town.

today is the last day of the Gion Matsuri - one of the big 3 festivals in japan. to commemorate the final day, there is a big parade through town with 30 ornately made up floats and everyone dressed in traditional japanese garb. i caught a nice front row seat and both parade and people watched for a few hours. the floats were stunning - such amazing work with wood and tapestry. the costumes were beautiful. and atmosphere was joyful. and there was nothing forced (nor western) about it. the people watched went well too - i love how the japanese dress and carry themselves. many men and women in kimono and yakata, umbrellas and fans, impeccably tailored suits to rival any italian, and youth styles that best anything i've seen stateside. did i mention that japan is amazing?

a few hours later, quite hot, and to be honest, done with watching floats go by, i went for a little sightseeing, and checked out Nijo Castle, a UNESCO world heritage site, and home to the shogunate back int he 1600s when kyoto was the capital. now to set the scene, all castles are fully surrounded by moats and are protected by large stone walls. inside are vast gardens and the palaces and castles themselves, decked out with the best architecture ever and done up with such precise inscriptions and paintings that words cannot begin to describe them. this castle, being on slightly elevated land, in kyoto (which is surrounded by mountains) provided the most stunning views i have seen in japan (fuji aside). i took many photos of the grounds, but was prohibited from doing so in the castle itself. but take my word, stunning. my favorite thing is that the floors all squeak - they are meant to. they are called nightingale floors, as their squeak is like a soft bird chirp. they, and much of the castle, was designed to protect against intruders. so the floors always let the guards know if an intruder had come in. there were also trapdoors for ninjas and samurai to leap out from hidden corners, and paper panels to perm it shadows to flow in, illuminating unwanted guests. love it. intrigue and power. and again, as i mentioned regarding Nagoya-Jo, this castle was very understated - perhaps like the japanese themselves. cultured, enlightened, advanced, but demure, modest and elegant. can't say enough.

at the castle, my camera batteries died and i knew i had to head back to the hostel for a recharge. on the way, i stopped and bought some japanese fans as souvenirs and some sushi on the street (get this, these were wrapped with a sponge cake around the outside of the rice - so good. i want more). i also had some ice cream.

kyoto is a marvelous city so far - a mixture of the modern and the past. it is not as futuristic as tokyo or nagoya, as much of it is still in its original state, and it is more idyllically located in the mountains. down every street, even those with modern, cosmopolitan shops, are temples, shrines, and homes in classic japanese style. this is the japan of legend and poetry. to quote depeche mode, i just can't get enough.

btw - how's this for a simile?! (from Murakami's "Wind Up Bird Chronicle"): the blades of grass stood motionless around the stone statue, like a greek chorus awaiting the oracle to speak.

damn!

The Gay Gaijin in Nagoya

first, an observation about Nagoya. as i mentioned, this city was greatly destroyed in WW2, and has since grown into a futuristic expanse of steel, glass, lights and vastly modern architecture. jaw-droppingly so. downtown nagoya after sunset is a sight to behold. it seems even more futuristic than tokyo, if that is possible. tall spires, birds nest lattice work on buildings, sweeping archways, ferris wheels affixed to buildings, fluorescent and neon lights illuminating fountains and side streets. i have never seen such a sight before. just walking the streets (with a few beers in my system and an ipod on) made for a fantastic night (bounding the streets, in freestyle walking form, while rockin' some widespread panic makes aaron a happy boy).

i went to the gay nightlife. an internet search brought up three gay bars. i went to the one with a website and a map - Shu. walking in, i found a small bar with 8 seats and one table off to the side. behind the bar was a tall thin man, maybe 45, and a shorter, older man (60?) who was a spitting image of Mr Miyagi. miyagi spoke english, so he and i chatted about my travels in japan, climbing my fuji, sumo, etc. i had a nice snack of ham and kiwi (traditional japanese bars demand a "cover" but isn't so much an entry fee as a prepay for a variety of tapas/snacks) and a few beers while we chatted. while i was there, two other men came in, both older and both fruity as can be. very cute. i asked miyagi about the 2 other gay bars i found and he said "you used internet, huh." "well, yes." "in truth, there are about 50 gay bars in nagoya." to back this up, he gave me a map with every one referenced. now, many of them aren't necessarily gaijin friendly, and many have no english speakers. i got miyagi's recommendations as to where to head, said my goodbyes, and hit the streets again.

twenty minutes later, in the heart of the gay/red light district, i ended up at Undivide. now, a side note about japan. the cities are 3-dimensional. that is to say, they go horizontal, vertical AND up. bars and restaurants can be anywhere. for example, i had dinner on the 10th floor of a building with clothes stores and an arcade. shu was on the 2nd floor of a 5 story building with bars on each floor. undivide was on the 4th floor of a building that apparently had apartments in it. anyway, the "crowd" here was younger - that is to say the bartender and two others at the bar. the bar itself was still very small, but very cute. music videos were on the tv, and some porn mags were on the corner of the bar. i had some beer and snacks of rice cakes. the bartender, Takash (adorable), hardly spoke english. i was trying to use my map to have him show me where else to go in town, when his friend Masa came in, who spoke english. the two of them showed me some bars to try and made some phone calls to see if the english speaking bartenders were working that night. unfortunately, the top choices were all closed (on a wednesday, nagoya isn't hopping).

so we chatted, and i learned that tattoos are indeed the sign of the yakuza clan, though at present, more of the young generation are getting them. i learned that the top 2 sumo wrestlers right now are mongolian. i learned that nagoya's nightlife and party life is quite big, but not really available to a non-japanese speaking gaijin (i need to learn this language!). i learned that japanese gays are all about types - when i asked what bar i should go to, masa asked "what's your type?" i didn't really know how to respond - i said i like my age, fit, good looking. he told me that the bars in japan are generally far more compartmentalized - there are mature bars, muscle bars, chub chaser bars, girly bars, young guy bars - i guess this exists in nyc, but not to the extent i feel it does in japan. japanese gays are slow to approach gaijin in general (a little unfortunate, as i have carnal ideas going on with just about every japanese i see), but even more so if you aren't their "type." now, i told masa and takash that i wan't really looking for sex - just conversation and good times. this opened my options a little, but i guess the assumption is that gaijin coming to japan have a one-track mind. not saying that i don't, but i enjoy conversation as much as anyone. so, after some chat time, i got my picture with them, and headed out.

after some wandering of gaytown, finding out that all the bars i wanted to go to were closed, i hit up a bar near the hotel for another drink or two, took a shower, and went to bed. a big day coming up - off to kyoto!