shoot - i am getting behind again. so from hiroshima, i went to osaka, a big and cosmopolitan city near kyoto. the train ride was uneventful, and pushing through intense heat in osaka, i made it the mere half mile to the capsule hotel. working out well in my favor, the capsule was very affordable and included access to the lounge, bathrooms, showers, sauna and public bath/pool. fantastic. just next door was an internet comic cafe. the street, higashi-dori, is a covered arcade filled with restaurants, bars, video game dens and shopping. and, the gay bars were just around the corner.
after checking in and doing a little internet work, i grabbed some lunch nearby (some nice tempura udon) and decided to take a small walking tour of the downtown area. i am getting really good at the subways, and the two stops to the mineta area (mineta means south in japanese - i stayed in the kita (north) area), and took no time at all. i, of course being lucky not to have had a single day of rain on my trip so far, emerged into the full glaring sun. the walk was nice - much of mineta is bars and shopping, same old from any other big city - but i was quite hot. i needed more than a few stops into a coffee shop just to cool off. not feeling the shopping bug, i just took in the city while listening to my headphones (grateful dead again. i had suggested joel listen to "eyes of the world" from the "so many roads" boxset to cheer up, so i took a listen myself, oh how nice). osaka is very clean and very new looking. the side streets have many of the same trendy boutiques and shops as harajuku in tokyo or sanjo dori in kyoto - lots of the same fashions on the street. but people watching and new city viewing is always fun.
after 3-4 hours, i was hot, sweaty and tired. back at the capsule, i gave myself a nice long soak in the onsen, took a little swim and sat as long as i could in the sauna - both the sauna and baths are unreasonably hot; i don't understand how the japanese can tolerate them for so long. i will say one thing about the heat, the longer you can take it, the better you feel - i was loose, clean and relaxed. if you conclude that if i went to lay down, i would fall asleep, you are right. i had myself a nice hour long nap in the capsule. afterwards, i watched some sumo and straight porn on the tv. an odd thing about japanese porn is that all the genitals are blurred/pixelated out. it's like looking through a scrambled television signal, while everything else is clear. cultural differences (as cindy put it, "japanese have so many social protocols, but no morality" - i can see much truth to this statement - very ritualized and rigid ways of acting and customs, but oh, behind those closed doors...).
following dinner at a nearby restaurant marked with a big pig statute in front (everything pork - i opted for gyoza and katsu-don), i went nearby to physique pride osaka, a local gay bar. the bartender, hideki, has been working there for 5 years. he's a very warm person, speaks english very well, and runs a really nice bar. it:s a 7 seat long bar, with some tables behind, a few videoscreens of music videos, and pop remixes on the stereo. i met an older guy named graham, from london (though living in england) and a guy my age named Sam (born in jordan to a jordanian and filipino - great mix on him). japanese gay bars, i have seen, are generally quite small establishments, and the nice thing to come from that is the cozy atmosphere - people get to know one another. at every bar, the bartenders engage everyone in conversation, all the time. so it is a choice to be left alone, rather than in many american bars, a choice to go strike up a conversation. it certainly makes a bar more welcoming, and indeed, easier for a gaijin.
after a few hours, the restlessness of wanting to see more of osaka hit me. i grabbed some snack food from a local convenience store (obsessed with the rice balls!) and went around the corner to Bacchus. the bartender there, Chano, is a very outgoing guy who doesn't pull any punches. he had me talking about my relationships (past and current), sexual likes and dislikes, american politics, thoughts about japanese culture and gay rights. we talked for a long while about being out to your family, and how that differs from japan to the states. i commented that one of my biggest observations is that in japan, the culture has existed for thousands of years, and while religion is present, it isn't central to behavior - culture is. rituals and social norms seem to guide japanese society. however, in the states, where the country is young and heterogeneous, there isn't a backdrop of culture to use to establish a national identity. while i think that heterogeneity is a strength of america's, it also leads people to base their cultural norms and practices into religion - the constant. christianity and judaism have both been present for thousands of years, and thus, there is much to tap into. however, religion also breeds hatred - of other religions, of women. and other races and of homosexuals. i am not blaming religion itself for all of it, but religion has been used as justifications for these hatreds. japanese culture doesn't have that hatred, it just has a resistance to the different and the new. gays are hated as abominations and sinners and pansies - they are seen as something different from the norm. difference leads to perhaps from degree of public shunning, but japanese these days aren't into hate. when i suggested this to chano as a reason why it should even be easier in japan to come out to one's family, he said that the difference factor leads to shaming, dishonor and loss of respect. for example, japanese culture is very focused on bloodlines and heredity, so it's perhaps worse to have no grandchildren than to adopt (which a gay couple might do). i said that perhaps the young generation, when they grow up, can begin to change these norms that foster repression of individuality. we had a good "kampai" to that one.
i then took a walk to a nearby bar called Cafe J's, but it was crazy empty, so i headed back to physique. i talked some more with hideki, and met three guys from nyc. they are all members of some new york symphonic group and were touring japan for four weeks. nice guys, all live in washington heights, and i gave them my email in case there was any way for them to get me a ticket to their tokyo show, as i will be there at the time. however much i was enjoying their company, which was a good amount, by the time 3am rolled around, i needed to rest. saying my goodbyes once again, i grabbed some takoyaki (octopus fritters) from the internet cafe and hit the sack.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Wednesday, July 23, 2008
Lining Up
i just wanted to post that sometimes things just work out. so, at first i cancelled my reservations in osaka for tonight and tomorrow, thinking i would go down to beppu to see cindy straight away. then, i reconsidered, deciding i would go to osaka for the tenjin matsuri fest, and its gay extravaganza counterpart, and then on saturday go to fukuoka to see cindy. by the time i made that second decision, the hostel i had cancelled my reservations with was already full. here's where it gets good.
the hostel i was going to stay at was about 15 minutes walk southeast of JR Osaka station. i, instead, took the cheap and easy route and booked two nights with a capsule hotel. so, not only do i get, for cheap, a bed, sauna, bath, shower, breakfast, and a yukata (which i plan to take home), it turns out that my hotel is right in the middle of the gay district! and, only 5 minutes from the JR Osaka station. things could not have worked out better.
and then, as more of the cosmic forces align, i come back from a day of walking downtown osaka and am a little bit disoriented as i leave the subway station, so i step into a nearby cafe. i figure i'll have some tea and a scone while looking at my map. who should i run into there, but Koen, the dutch fellow from hiroshima! he was just heading to do laundry and stopped in for a snack. this cafe is not centrally located to anything, and is in a really odd corner of the subway station. and osaka is big! i was more than a little taken aback. we chatted for awhile, as he is off to china tomorrow. i forgot to get our picture taken, but perhaps one day we will meet again.
the hostel i was going to stay at was about 15 minutes walk southeast of JR Osaka station. i, instead, took the cheap and easy route and booked two nights with a capsule hotel. so, not only do i get, for cheap, a bed, sauna, bath, shower, breakfast, and a yukata (which i plan to take home), it turns out that my hotel is right in the middle of the gay district! and, only 5 minutes from the JR Osaka station. things could not have worked out better.
and then, as more of the cosmic forces align, i come back from a day of walking downtown osaka and am a little bit disoriented as i leave the subway station, so i step into a nearby cafe. i figure i'll have some tea and a scone while looking at my map. who should i run into there, but Koen, the dutch fellow from hiroshima! he was just heading to do laundry and stopped in for a snack. this cafe is not centrally located to anything, and is in a really odd corner of the subway station. and osaka is big! i was more than a little taken aback. we chatted for awhile, as he is off to china tomorrow. i forgot to get our picture taken, but perhaps one day we will meet again.
Hiroshima - Parts 1&2
i will just put all of hiroshima into one post.
after i got back from the peace museum and had a nice shower, i went for dinner at a japanese bbq where i grilled beef and veggies at an open fire spit at my table. washed down with a few cold Kirins, it made for some fantastic eating.
at the hostel, while blogging, i began talking to a dutch fellow named Koen, who has been traveling for 13 months - australia, southeast asia, russia and many others. he is in japan for two weeks. i figured he had to be an interesting person to chat it up with, so i suggested we go get drunk. taking me up on my offer, koen and i went to central city and ended up at an irish pub called Mary Malone's for a few shots of Jameson's and several draft beers. the conversations ranged from places we've traveled, to american politics, to varying countries' customs and rituals, to religion, to family life, and many more. when two people sit and drink for three hours, much gets said. overall a really great night. we topped it all off with late night "diner" food of octopus fritters and beef skewers wrapped around asparagus.
waking in the morning with a slight hangover, i went to the corner store and bought eggs and bacon for a delicious breakfast scramble (the hostel has a great kitchen). my belly full and coffee in my system, i took the train and ferry to the island of Miyajima, in the Inland Sea. it is known mostly for the famous O Torii - a large torii built in the water that gates to a huge temple. the views from the ferry were only the tip of the iceberg.
on the island, i decided (against better judgment, as i was wearing flip flops) to go hiking. first of all, the island is filled with free-roaming deer. so cute - i pet one of them for a good ten minutes, and it loved it! then, i hiked a mile or so up a small road and through a small park to a cable car system that took me to the top of one of the peaks. exiting the cars, we were surrounded not only by an amazing panoramic view of the island and the inland sea, but also deer and monkeys! though not as cute as the monkeys joel and i played with in peru, i enjoyed watching them scurry about.
from that summit, i hiked another kilometer down and up to the top of Mt Misen, 535m above sea level, and a good 150m higher than the cable car summit. the views kept getting better. i have been lucky every single day with the weather - clear, blue skies and sun sun sun. though, admittedly, i was already soaked through my shirt in sweat, the breezes at the top of misen were pure joy. after some contemplative time gazing into the deep blue waters, the tree covered hills, and the mountains across the sea, i took a hike down misen. along the way, i met an older japanese man (50?) from near hiroshima, who during the summer hikes the mountain paths in miyajima 3-4 times a month. together, we crested another summit and i got some choice photos at the peaks.
the hike down the mountain was long (2 hours) and, given my flip flops, rather arduous. most of the hike was in the forest, so i didn't see too much, but all the same, it felt good to be moving about outside and seeing things that most other people don't see. anyway, burning calories is always good, and my calves and ass are all the better for it.
coming to the base, in Ohtomo park, i came across even more deer! then, the best part. i came around to the other side of the O-Torii from where the ferry let us off (having gone around the island via the mountain range). the water in which it sits is rather shallow, and one can wade out to it. walking through deliciously warm waters up to mid shin, i got some really great shots of what is known as one of the top three views in japan. following, i didn't have much urge to actually tour the shrine, so i took some photos of it and the nearby five-story pagoda and went for some tempura udon. i also snacked on a local favorite - little sponge cakes shaped like leaves, filled with either chocolate, cream or bean paste. delicious.
at this point, i was drenched in sweat again and felt rather grimy, so i headed back to the hostel. on the way, i finished Wind-Up Bird Chronicle. great book, though i think i still like Kafka on the Shore more. I am excited to read even more murakami - he is an excellent author.
at the hostel, i got in contact with a highschool friend, Cindy Lynn Wachowski. i had thought, for some reason, she was living in thailand. but no! she is in beppu, just 2 hours away. we connected on the phone, and i have altered my travel plans. i am headed to osaka tomorrow and friday for tenjin matsuri and crazy gay nightlife, but on saturday, headed to fukuoka to hit the beach with cindy and then headed to her club, the happy cock (where she used to bartend), for an all night party. i am quite excited; of all the friends from highschool, and i haven't seen her in ten years, she's someone i recall quite fondly, and someone with whom i had a ton of fun. i love when a plan comes together.
tonight, i am off to have some hiroshima specialty food - okinamiyaki, a meat and veggie filled japanese pancake. then i will explore the gayer side of town. this is the trip that keeps on giving. all my love :)
after i got back from the peace museum and had a nice shower, i went for dinner at a japanese bbq where i grilled beef and veggies at an open fire spit at my table. washed down with a few cold Kirins, it made for some fantastic eating.
at the hostel, while blogging, i began talking to a dutch fellow named Koen, who has been traveling for 13 months - australia, southeast asia, russia and many others. he is in japan for two weeks. i figured he had to be an interesting person to chat it up with, so i suggested we go get drunk. taking me up on my offer, koen and i went to central city and ended up at an irish pub called Mary Malone's for a few shots of Jameson's and several draft beers. the conversations ranged from places we've traveled, to american politics, to varying countries' customs and rituals, to religion, to family life, and many more. when two people sit and drink for three hours, much gets said. overall a really great night. we topped it all off with late night "diner" food of octopus fritters and beef skewers wrapped around asparagus.
waking in the morning with a slight hangover, i went to the corner store and bought eggs and bacon for a delicious breakfast scramble (the hostel has a great kitchen). my belly full and coffee in my system, i took the train and ferry to the island of Miyajima, in the Inland Sea. it is known mostly for the famous O Torii - a large torii built in the water that gates to a huge temple. the views from the ferry were only the tip of the iceberg.
on the island, i decided (against better judgment, as i was wearing flip flops) to go hiking. first of all, the island is filled with free-roaming deer. so cute - i pet one of them for a good ten minutes, and it loved it! then, i hiked a mile or so up a small road and through a small park to a cable car system that took me to the top of one of the peaks. exiting the cars, we were surrounded not only by an amazing panoramic view of the island and the inland sea, but also deer and monkeys! though not as cute as the monkeys joel and i played with in peru, i enjoyed watching them scurry about.
from that summit, i hiked another kilometer down and up to the top of Mt Misen, 535m above sea level, and a good 150m higher than the cable car summit. the views kept getting better. i have been lucky every single day with the weather - clear, blue skies and sun sun sun. though, admittedly, i was already soaked through my shirt in sweat, the breezes at the top of misen were pure joy. after some contemplative time gazing into the deep blue waters, the tree covered hills, and the mountains across the sea, i took a hike down misen. along the way, i met an older japanese man (50?) from near hiroshima, who during the summer hikes the mountain paths in miyajima 3-4 times a month. together, we crested another summit and i got some choice photos at the peaks.
the hike down the mountain was long (2 hours) and, given my flip flops, rather arduous. most of the hike was in the forest, so i didn't see too much, but all the same, it felt good to be moving about outside and seeing things that most other people don't see. anyway, burning calories is always good, and my calves and ass are all the better for it.
coming to the base, in Ohtomo park, i came across even more deer! then, the best part. i came around to the other side of the O-Torii from where the ferry let us off (having gone around the island via the mountain range). the water in which it sits is rather shallow, and one can wade out to it. walking through deliciously warm waters up to mid shin, i got some really great shots of what is known as one of the top three views in japan. following, i didn't have much urge to actually tour the shrine, so i took some photos of it and the nearby five-story pagoda and went for some tempura udon. i also snacked on a local favorite - little sponge cakes shaped like leaves, filled with either chocolate, cream or bean paste. delicious.
at this point, i was drenched in sweat again and felt rather grimy, so i headed back to the hostel. on the way, i finished Wind-Up Bird Chronicle. great book, though i think i still like Kafka on the Shore more. I am excited to read even more murakami - he is an excellent author.
at the hostel, i got in contact with a highschool friend, Cindy Lynn Wachowski. i had thought, for some reason, she was living in thailand. but no! she is in beppu, just 2 hours away. we connected on the phone, and i have altered my travel plans. i am headed to osaka tomorrow and friday for tenjin matsuri and crazy gay nightlife, but on saturday, headed to fukuoka to hit the beach with cindy and then headed to her club, the happy cock (where she used to bartend), for an all night party. i am quite excited; of all the friends from highschool, and i haven't seen her in ten years, she's someone i recall quite fondly, and someone with whom i had a ton of fun. i love when a plan comes together.
tonight, i am off to have some hiroshima specialty food - okinamiyaki, a meat and veggie filled japanese pancake. then i will explore the gayer side of town. this is the trip that keeps on giving. all my love :)
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Teachings of Buddha
"The Ways of Practice"
(9) There are four unlimited states of mind that the seeker of enlightenment should cherish. They are compassion, tenderness, gladness and equanimity. One can remove greed by cherishing compassion; one can remove anger by cherishing tenderness; one can remove suffering by cherishing gladness; and, one can remove the habit of discrimination of enemies and friends by cherishing an equitable mind.
(13) If one keeps his eyes open, he will see the teaching everywhere.
"The Meaning of a True Friend": one who always sticks closely to the right way; one who worries secretly about his friend's welfare; one who consoles his friend in misfortune; one who always offers a helping hand; one who knows to keep secrets; and, one who always gives good advice.
(9) There are four unlimited states of mind that the seeker of enlightenment should cherish. They are compassion, tenderness, gladness and equanimity. One can remove greed by cherishing compassion; one can remove anger by cherishing tenderness; one can remove suffering by cherishing gladness; and, one can remove the habit of discrimination of enemies and friends by cherishing an equitable mind.
(13) If one keeps his eyes open, he will see the teaching everywhere.
"The Meaning of a True Friend": one who always sticks closely to the right way; one who worries secretly about his friend's welfare; one who consoles his friend in misfortune; one who always offers a helping hand; one who knows to keep secrets; and, one who always gives good advice.
Peace: What's in a Word?
"there are no good wars, and there is no bad peace"
these words echoed with me throughout the hiroshima peace memorial museum. set in what is now called peace park, the museum documents hiroshima in history, its use in the wars leading up to WW2, the dropping of the bomb, and the lives of victims following.
70000 lives in one day on 8:15, august 6, 1945. 70000 more by year end.
the war waged by japan was not going well by 1942 - america had begun to move the fight to the mainland from the pacific waters. by 1945, the allied powers knew that germany was going to fall. they had finished the bomb, but were unsure of using it (the physicists begged roosevelt not to use the bomb, as it could leave to incalculable death and demonstrate perhaps by reverse engineering its form to others, leading to an unforeseen arms race. hmm...). japan had yet to surrender. the soviets had not yet declared war on japan, but at the urging of the US and britain, stalin said that three months after the german surrender, he would declare war.
however, this frightened the US and britain - if the soviets entered the war and helped gain a japanese surrender, the soviets may broker a deal more amenable to their liking and come out with a greater post-war position. the US decided to use the bomb against japan. reasons included obtaining a surrender without soviet help, and, in demonstrating to the public that the 2 billion dollars and 120000-persons used in its development was not a waste. in april 1945, the US and britain issued the Potsdam Declaration to the japanese emperor. it demanded a surrender but did not offer to maintain the emperor:s power, a sticking point for the japanese. it also did not make a single mention of the bomb. documents show that truman and the military were urged by others to mention the bomb - by doing so surrender might be obtained without its use. reasons against? to be able to at least use the bomb, and to test its capability. indeed, one the qualifications for picking a bombing target was a city that had not been destroyed by air raids, so that the true nature of its power could be seen. hiroshima was chosen for that reason, for being away from a large body of water (that with a misfire could consume the explosion) and for not having american POWs.
the bomb dropped. the city decimated. burn victims with their skin hanging and dripping liek wax from their bodies. unable to to even drink water lest they die )internal organs so irradiated). black rain fell. even after the acute symptoms subsided, radiation caused cancer, birth deformities and other ills for years even until today.
there is a story of a girl named Sakuda who survived the blast without apparent injury. 10 years later, she came down with a severe form of leukemia that the doctors couldn't treat. getting worse and worse, she had heard that if you fold 1,000 paper cranes, you will be granted one wish. so, from her hospital bed, she folded over 1,000 paper cranes. it didn't work and she passed away. her story became widely known, and people from all over the world sent paper cranes to hirohsima in her remembrance. there is a children's memorial for her now in peace park (i can't recall the children death toll, but i do remember that on the day of the bomb, 2000 to 6500 children were made orphans).
crying through this exhibit, angered at the senseless destruction of innocent life and by today's unwillingness to abolish weapons (or even declare being a nuclear power, so as to avoid the comprehensive test ban treaty!), saddened by the personal stories presented, i was struck with something profound. peace park sits at the hypocenter of the bomb - where buildings and life were immediately burned into eternity. japan has a sullied history, especially in this century (sino-japanese wars, nanking, ww2), but hiroshima at least has put all of that front and center and said "yes, we know what was done. but now we can truly see the harm in war and the pure destructiveness of the nuclear age. it is a time for world peace."
and so, from the ashes, comes a monument the world that not only we do not forget, but that we also know that it is our goal to prevent the bomb's recurrence by destroying our weapons and making peace. Peace Park.
after a bit, all i could think of was the world trade center. on 9/11, america suffered a blow of callous violence; one that did not care at all for the value of human life. however, we have squandered the chance to make that an example to the world. and though there are many reasons why that is true, one that came into my mind is that instead of a public monument to peace and harmony and democracy, it is to be the world's tallest office building, called the Freedom Tower. freedom? from tyranny, or, of the world markets? the capitalist presence in what should have been a powerful moment in history strikes such a strong distinction against what i am seeing here.
bless you, hiroshima, and i am so terribly sorry for what happened here, words cannot express. i am moved to tears by your words, and i share with you your hope for world peace.
these words echoed with me throughout the hiroshima peace memorial museum. set in what is now called peace park, the museum documents hiroshima in history, its use in the wars leading up to WW2, the dropping of the bomb, and the lives of victims following.
70000 lives in one day on 8:15, august 6, 1945. 70000 more by year end.
the war waged by japan was not going well by 1942 - america had begun to move the fight to the mainland from the pacific waters. by 1945, the allied powers knew that germany was going to fall. they had finished the bomb, but were unsure of using it (the physicists begged roosevelt not to use the bomb, as it could leave to incalculable death and demonstrate perhaps by reverse engineering its form to others, leading to an unforeseen arms race. hmm...). japan had yet to surrender. the soviets had not yet declared war on japan, but at the urging of the US and britain, stalin said that three months after the german surrender, he would declare war.
however, this frightened the US and britain - if the soviets entered the war and helped gain a japanese surrender, the soviets may broker a deal more amenable to their liking and come out with a greater post-war position. the US decided to use the bomb against japan. reasons included obtaining a surrender without soviet help, and, in demonstrating to the public that the 2 billion dollars and 120000-persons used in its development was not a waste. in april 1945, the US and britain issued the Potsdam Declaration to the japanese emperor. it demanded a surrender but did not offer to maintain the emperor:s power, a sticking point for the japanese. it also did not make a single mention of the bomb. documents show that truman and the military were urged by others to mention the bomb - by doing so surrender might be obtained without its use. reasons against? to be able to at least use the bomb, and to test its capability. indeed, one the qualifications for picking a bombing target was a city that had not been destroyed by air raids, so that the true nature of its power could be seen. hiroshima was chosen for that reason, for being away from a large body of water (that with a misfire could consume the explosion) and for not having american POWs.
the bomb dropped. the city decimated. burn victims with their skin hanging and dripping liek wax from their bodies. unable to to even drink water lest they die )internal organs so irradiated). black rain fell. even after the acute symptoms subsided, radiation caused cancer, birth deformities and other ills for years even until today.
there is a story of a girl named Sakuda who survived the blast without apparent injury. 10 years later, she came down with a severe form of leukemia that the doctors couldn't treat. getting worse and worse, she had heard that if you fold 1,000 paper cranes, you will be granted one wish. so, from her hospital bed, she folded over 1,000 paper cranes. it didn't work and she passed away. her story became widely known, and people from all over the world sent paper cranes to hirohsima in her remembrance. there is a children's memorial for her now in peace park (i can't recall the children death toll, but i do remember that on the day of the bomb, 2000 to 6500 children were made orphans).
crying through this exhibit, angered at the senseless destruction of innocent life and by today's unwillingness to abolish weapons (or even declare being a nuclear power, so as to avoid the comprehensive test ban treaty!), saddened by the personal stories presented, i was struck with something profound. peace park sits at the hypocenter of the bomb - where buildings and life were immediately burned into eternity. japan has a sullied history, especially in this century (sino-japanese wars, nanking, ww2), but hiroshima at least has put all of that front and center and said "yes, we know what was done. but now we can truly see the harm in war and the pure destructiveness of the nuclear age. it is a time for world peace."
and so, from the ashes, comes a monument the world that not only we do not forget, but that we also know that it is our goal to prevent the bomb's recurrence by destroying our weapons and making peace. Peace Park.
after a bit, all i could think of was the world trade center. on 9/11, america suffered a blow of callous violence; one that did not care at all for the value of human life. however, we have squandered the chance to make that an example to the world. and though there are many reasons why that is true, one that came into my mind is that instead of a public monument to peace and harmony and democracy, it is to be the world's tallest office building, called the Freedom Tower. freedom? from tyranny, or, of the world markets? the capitalist presence in what should have been a powerful moment in history strikes such a strong distinction against what i am seeing here.
bless you, hiroshima, and i am so terribly sorry for what happened here, words cannot express. i am moved to tears by your words, and i share with you your hope for world peace.
In the Hills, Lotus Position
well, not lotus position - nor even half lotus. sitting like that for a long time hurts! it customary for japanese from a young age to sit cross legged, often in half lotus, but for a lanky american without such practice, such a feat is difficult at best.
why am i offering this exposition? because i just got to hiroshima after 2 days at a zen center in the small mountain town of Umahori, near Kyoto. the temple, hosen-ji, has operated as a zen temple for over 300 years. in the past 10 years, it has begun to operate as a zen meditation (zazen) training center. i tried it out.
i am sure i will more on this topic in the future - i have much to digest - but at present there isn't a huge amount i want to express. so let me begin with the easiest: descriptions, people and immediate thoughts.
the town of umahori is quite small and sits in a valley a few mountains over from kyoto. hosenji sits on a hillside facing west, with great views and even better sunsets. there is the main house - with a kitchen, lounge, dining room and temple room. then there are bathroom facilities and lodging. near the temple are farms that are run and tended for by the monks and students (every day is work for 3 hours - mine was watering and weeding the vegetable garden and raking leaves in the parking lot. there was also daily cleaning - mine was scrubbing the showers and toilets). the beds were bunk beds with futons that provided decent padding - though the rooms got rather hot at night (did i mention that japan is hot in the summer?). there is also a zen garden/pond behind the main house, filled with frogs and carp.
master roshi kokugon is a pleasant short, plump japanese man. he can get cross when you move during meditation, but otherwise, a charming man. i was the only american in the group - when i was there, there were 10 other students, 9 japanese (ages ranging from 10-40) and a tall belgian named Guan. Guan lives and works in japan (teaching english) and stays at hosenji to study a few months a year. Ban is a 27 year from hiroshima who is studying doctoral chemical physics. Somia is a 35 year old woman from outside tokyo - i don't know what she does, but she spoke excellent english and we talked for a long time about life in nyc and japan. she told me to read some books from Mishima (?), a japanese author in the 50s, apprently quite like by the gay community. for the most part, everybody talked in japanese, unless they were speaking to me (guan is fluent). when they did, occasionally guan or ban would offer me short translations. an interesting, sometimes frustrating, situation, but i get by. i am good at adapting and i have noticed that i am picking up more japanese all the time.
the day is wake up at 520am. then taichi for 20 min, followed by an hour of zazen. zazen is fucking hard! two sets of 30 minutes of sitting on a cushion, legs crossed, back straight, no moving. the idea is to remove all thoughts and focus on your breathing - in and out. i could do that at first, but after 10 minutes the pain starts (especially when i tried half lotus!). i got better as time went on, but man, not all peace and tranquility - rather, pain and perseverance. then breakfast, daily cleaning, and daily work. the middle of the day is free time, which i spent copying passages out of buddha's teachings (i will put some up here when i have my notebook around), and reading. after dinner, more zazen (1.5 hours), chanting, and lights out at 10.
breakfast and dinner are ritualized - you sit kneeling, butt on feet (ouch!) and there is a very precise ritual to setting your bowls out, passing food, cleaning the bowls. i rather liked parts of it, and the food was all vegetarian greatness, but again, the pain in my feet grew to be quite excruciating. that is the idea, they tell me.
anyway, i know i will come up with more reflections, but here are the things i have learned+
1. zen buddhism has no godhead. buddha is thanked repeatedly, but it is out of graciousness and respect, not worship (i love the respect element of japanese culture. it is very welcoming, humble and kind).
2. i have so many thoughts in my head. my first zazen i could not "turn off the tv." i had random thoughts, songs, pictures, etc. i almost looked forward to the pain to bring my focus to better precision. when i wasn't hurting, i got better at focusing on breath. i would count each one, and focus on my posture being straight so that the breath would go straight down. i began to envision in my mind that when i breathed in, an umbrella would open up, as if buoyed by winds, and on exhale, it would return.
3. i have bad posture. i spent so much focus at zazen and meals just keeping my back upright. compared to japanese at least, i have bad posture and low leg flexibiliity. i am not fidgity, like some of the youth there, but i had trouble not moving - both becuase i would need to shift to fight pain, or, to correct my posture. master kokugon did not like it when i moved - "please.a.stop.moving!" and since he said it in english, everyone knew who he was talking to.
4. zen buddhism may not be for me. i love much of what buddha teaches, but i am not interested in giving up intoxicants, worldly pleasures and late nights out. i can lead my own good life regardless. i also don't think i can maintain such forms of meditation. however, while it did not lead me to any state of higher consciousness, i see its benefit in focus and in clearing the mind. perhaps i shall continue practice - start working on flexibility now!
i am sure there is more to record, but for now, i'm spent. and hungry.
next post on the atomic bomb memorial in hiroshima.
why am i offering this exposition? because i just got to hiroshima after 2 days at a zen center in the small mountain town of Umahori, near Kyoto. the temple, hosen-ji, has operated as a zen temple for over 300 years. in the past 10 years, it has begun to operate as a zen meditation (zazen) training center. i tried it out.
i am sure i will more on this topic in the future - i have much to digest - but at present there isn't a huge amount i want to express. so let me begin with the easiest: descriptions, people and immediate thoughts.
the town of umahori is quite small and sits in a valley a few mountains over from kyoto. hosenji sits on a hillside facing west, with great views and even better sunsets. there is the main house - with a kitchen, lounge, dining room and temple room. then there are bathroom facilities and lodging. near the temple are farms that are run and tended for by the monks and students (every day is work for 3 hours - mine was watering and weeding the vegetable garden and raking leaves in the parking lot. there was also daily cleaning - mine was scrubbing the showers and toilets). the beds were bunk beds with futons that provided decent padding - though the rooms got rather hot at night (did i mention that japan is hot in the summer?). there is also a zen garden/pond behind the main house, filled with frogs and carp.
master roshi kokugon is a pleasant short, plump japanese man. he can get cross when you move during meditation, but otherwise, a charming man. i was the only american in the group - when i was there, there were 10 other students, 9 japanese (ages ranging from 10-40) and a tall belgian named Guan. Guan lives and works in japan (teaching english) and stays at hosenji to study a few months a year. Ban is a 27 year from hiroshima who is studying doctoral chemical physics. Somia is a 35 year old woman from outside tokyo - i don't know what she does, but she spoke excellent english and we talked for a long time about life in nyc and japan. she told me to read some books from Mishima (?), a japanese author in the 50s, apprently quite like by the gay community. for the most part, everybody talked in japanese, unless they were speaking to me (guan is fluent). when they did, occasionally guan or ban would offer me short translations. an interesting, sometimes frustrating, situation, but i get by. i am good at adapting and i have noticed that i am picking up more japanese all the time.
the day is wake up at 520am. then taichi for 20 min, followed by an hour of zazen. zazen is fucking hard! two sets of 30 minutes of sitting on a cushion, legs crossed, back straight, no moving. the idea is to remove all thoughts and focus on your breathing - in and out. i could do that at first, but after 10 minutes the pain starts (especially when i tried half lotus!). i got better as time went on, but man, not all peace and tranquility - rather, pain and perseverance. then breakfast, daily cleaning, and daily work. the middle of the day is free time, which i spent copying passages out of buddha's teachings (i will put some up here when i have my notebook around), and reading. after dinner, more zazen (1.5 hours), chanting, and lights out at 10.
breakfast and dinner are ritualized - you sit kneeling, butt on feet (ouch!) and there is a very precise ritual to setting your bowls out, passing food, cleaning the bowls. i rather liked parts of it, and the food was all vegetarian greatness, but again, the pain in my feet grew to be quite excruciating. that is the idea, they tell me.
anyway, i know i will come up with more reflections, but here are the things i have learned+
1. zen buddhism has no godhead. buddha is thanked repeatedly, but it is out of graciousness and respect, not worship (i love the respect element of japanese culture. it is very welcoming, humble and kind).
2. i have so many thoughts in my head. my first zazen i could not "turn off the tv." i had random thoughts, songs, pictures, etc. i almost looked forward to the pain to bring my focus to better precision. when i wasn't hurting, i got better at focusing on breath. i would count each one, and focus on my posture being straight so that the breath would go straight down. i began to envision in my mind that when i breathed in, an umbrella would open up, as if buoyed by winds, and on exhale, it would return.
3. i have bad posture. i spent so much focus at zazen and meals just keeping my back upright. compared to japanese at least, i have bad posture and low leg flexibiliity. i am not fidgity, like some of the youth there, but i had trouble not moving - both becuase i would need to shift to fight pain, or, to correct my posture. master kokugon did not like it when i moved - "please.a.stop.moving!" and since he said it in english, everyone knew who he was talking to.
4. zen buddhism may not be for me. i love much of what buddha teaches, but i am not interested in giving up intoxicants, worldly pleasures and late nights out. i can lead my own good life regardless. i also don't think i can maintain such forms of meditation. however, while it did not lead me to any state of higher consciousness, i see its benefit in focus and in clearing the mind. perhaps i shall continue practice - start working on flexibility now!
i am sure there is more to record, but for now, i'm spent. and hungry.
next post on the atomic bomb memorial in hiroshima.
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