Azure - a Kyoto Gay Bar

went out last night to a gay bar called Azure; it came recommended to me by the bartenders at Nan Nan in nagoya. indeed, after a quick bite at Mos Burger (japanese fast food - i had a teriyaki burger and fries - not bad not great), i got to Azure around 930. at that time, there were three bartenders and two patrons in a small room with a bar seating 7 and a long table behind. thankfully, two of the bartenders spoke decent english. there was Lei, a 23 years old taiwanese who moved to japan 5 years ago for university, and who, after graduation, wants to move to nyc to continue a study in graphic design. then there was Tanjai, a 32 year old kyoto native with a great smile and a cute lip piercing. unfortunately, i cant remember anyone elses names. i ordered a beer and some kiwi and spent the next hour and a half talking with them about kyoto, nyc, pop music (a general dislike of the new madonna album) (pop music is also a good way for japanese to learn english - they listen and mimc the words), rock music, comic books, anime and our first times with gay sex. i also learned the japanese words for top, bottom and versatile.

i thought i would try to see more of gay kyoto, so i asked where else a gaijin who doesn't speak japanese should go. they asked, as in nagoya, what my type is. i said that i like guys near my age who are fit (not really looking for daddies, chubs or bears), though i said i would take english speakers over everything else. they suggested a bar called Apple around the corner. so, i got my picture with them, gave Lei my email address in case he ever comes to nyc (he is just about the cutest thing - reminds me of someone named josh lei in nyc), and said my goodbyes.

i went to apple, finding the bar whose sign was only in japanese, so i had Tanjai write it out on a piece of paper for me. at 11pm, there was no one there except the bartenders, and there was some kind of cover charge, so i decided not to stay. after i left, i realized i didn't know where any of the other gay bars were, so i thought i would just go home. while i was eating a rice ball from 7-11, i thought "man, you're in kyoto and you've already found a fun little gay bar - go back!" and so go back i did.

i strolled back into Azure around 1130 to find it slightly busy, and, to my delight, to find a warm welcome from Lei and Tanjai. i got another beer and joined back into the conversations. it is an odd experience to hear english when being spoken to, but not to understand any other conversation in the bar. though, to my surprise, i am beginning to pick out random words that i know, so i heard Lei mention a yukata (basically, a kimono for summer) and i asked what he was talking about. yesterday, at Gion Matsuri, all the Azure bartenders wore yukata, and Lei wore a woman's one, as well as a wig - japanese geisha drag (i saw pictures. fantastic).

soon, i was sitting at the bar talking with the guy next to me (argh! don't remember his name) who had spent 3 years in chicago for school, and thus spoke very good english. we must have talked for over an hour about everything. i told him what i had done in japan, and validatingly, he told me i have been doing the right things and experiencing some of the best that japan has to offer (tsukiji fish market, onsen, fuji, e.g.). he said all that is left is more food, kimonos and a ryokan. done! i seriously cannot get enough of japanese food - still thinking about those octopus balls. we talked about life in the states. we talked about gay life in japan - he reiterated that until the meiji era, gay sex was very commonplace, especially by samurai. but when the meiji brought in missionaries, such acts were pushed underground and shunned by the desire for homogeneity. only recently have the gays found an identity and a voice, and this guy ("Chicago-san") said that he hopes that japan continues to open up and that the gay movement find a stronger voice than it already has. he said that while there aren't gay bashings or hate crimes to speak of, there is homophobia in society and in the workplace. there are thousands of years of tradition to work through. but he is patient and understanding. i told him my thoughts about keeping certain opinions that come from a truly american perspective a little quiet until i understand more of the japanese point of view. Chicago-san told me that i had a better understanding already of japanese culture than i am giving myself credit for, and that there is much that western countries have to offer japan as far as social liberation. i was very heartened to hear this. i am also, as a sidenote, ecstatic to talk about Obama - the world really is watching and is very excited about the man, and to be able to speak with pride and hope and confidence, rather than disdain, shame and despair... well, it's nice.

talking with Chicago-san was a blast, but my night did not end there. soon, a new group of guys came in. one of them, who didn't speak english, was both the tallest japanese i've seen yet (6'2") and looked JUST LIKE my friend gary lutz - cap, same nose, same hands, lanky, jeans, flannel... i was in shock. there was also a fun, quirky japanese who was already quite drunk who sat on my other side. i told him i was from america and he burst into song from Westwide Story (he repeated these random songs throughout the night). he taught me some more japanese words and, in general, just amused me to no end.

i was shocked to find that (many many a beer later) it was 4am. i had been there for another 5 hours. and it was one of the best nights i have had yet in japan. i finally found the local culture and conversation i had been wanting - and in spades. real conversation with meaning. no facades. no gearing things toward the tourist. just real. i said my goodbyes when the bar closed and walked back to the hostel feeling amazing. just dynamite. i hope to go back tonight - though Lei will be in osaka (good note is that i was told that not only is osaka a great gay scene - clubs and bars galore - but that being there for Tenjin Matsuri is like a mini gay pride). i swear, this trip just keeps getting better and better. i am a lucky man.