Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Hiroshima - Parts 1&2

i will just put all of hiroshima into one post.

after i got back from the peace museum and had a nice shower, i went for dinner at a japanese bbq where i grilled beef and veggies at an open fire spit at my table. washed down with a few cold Kirins, it made for some fantastic eating.

at the hostel, while blogging, i began talking to a dutch fellow named Koen, who has been traveling for 13 months - australia, southeast asia, russia and many others. he is in japan for two weeks. i figured he had to be an interesting person to chat it up with, so i suggested we go get drunk. taking me up on my offer, koen and i went to central city and ended up at an irish pub called Mary Malone's for a few shots of Jameson's and several draft beers. the conversations ranged from places we've traveled, to american politics, to varying countries' customs and rituals, to religion, to family life, and many more. when two people sit and drink for three hours, much gets said. overall a really great night. we topped it all off with late night "diner" food of octopus fritters and beef skewers wrapped around asparagus.

waking in the morning with a slight hangover, i went to the corner store and bought eggs and bacon for a delicious breakfast scramble (the hostel has a great kitchen). my belly full and coffee in my system, i took the train and ferry to the island of Miyajima, in the Inland Sea. it is known mostly for the famous O Torii - a large torii built in the water that gates to a huge temple. the views from the ferry were only the tip of the iceberg.

on the island, i decided (against better judgment, as i was wearing flip flops) to go hiking. first of all, the island is filled with free-roaming deer. so cute - i pet one of them for a good ten minutes, and it loved it! then, i hiked a mile or so up a small road and through a small park to a cable car system that took me to the top of one of the peaks. exiting the cars, we were surrounded not only by an amazing panoramic view of the island and the inland sea, but also deer and monkeys! though not as cute as the monkeys joel and i played with in peru, i enjoyed watching them scurry about.

from that summit, i hiked another kilometer down and up to the top of Mt Misen, 535m above sea level, and a good 150m higher than the cable car summit. the views kept getting better. i have been lucky every single day with the weather - clear, blue skies and sun sun sun. though, admittedly, i was already soaked through my shirt in sweat, the breezes at the top of misen were pure joy. after some contemplative time gazing into the deep blue waters, the tree covered hills, and the mountains across the sea, i took a hike down misen. along the way, i met an older japanese man (50?) from near hiroshima, who during the summer hikes the mountain paths in miyajima 3-4 times a month. together, we crested another summit and i got some choice photos at the peaks.

the hike down the mountain was long (2 hours) and, given my flip flops, rather arduous. most of the hike was in the forest, so i didn't see too much, but all the same, it felt good to be moving about outside and seeing things that most other people don't see. anyway, burning calories is always good, and my calves and ass are all the better for it.

coming to the base, in Ohtomo park, i came across even more deer! then, the best part. i came around to the other side of the O-Torii from where the ferry let us off (having gone around the island via the mountain range). the water in which it sits is rather shallow, and one can wade out to it. walking through deliciously warm waters up to mid shin, i got some really great shots of what is known as one of the top three views in japan. following, i didn't have much urge to actually tour the shrine, so i took some photos of it and the nearby five-story pagoda and went for some tempura udon. i also snacked on a local favorite - little sponge cakes shaped like leaves, filled with either chocolate, cream or bean paste. delicious.

at this point, i was drenched in sweat again and felt rather grimy, so i headed back to the hostel. on the way, i finished Wind-Up Bird Chronicle. great book, though i think i still like Kafka on the Shore more. I am excited to read even more murakami - he is an excellent author.

at the hostel, i got in contact with a highschool friend, Cindy Lynn Wachowski. i had thought, for some reason, she was living in thailand. but no! she is in beppu, just 2 hours away. we connected on the phone, and i have altered my travel plans. i am headed to osaka tomorrow and friday for tenjin matsuri and crazy gay nightlife, but on saturday, headed to fukuoka to hit the beach with cindy and then headed to her club, the happy cock (where she used to bartend), for an all night party. i am quite excited; of all the friends from highschool, and i haven't seen her in ten years, she's someone i recall quite fondly, and someone with whom i had a ton of fun. i love when a plan comes together.

tonight, i am off to have some hiroshima specialty food - okinamiyaki, a meat and veggie filled japanese pancake. then i will explore the gayer side of town. this is the trip that keeps on giving. all my love :)

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